He’s the master who makes sure that only specific cuts of meat are used for particular recipes. For example, only shanks are used in the mutton Nalli Korma, and only precise-sized chops in the biryani. Not just any tomatoes, but only organic desi tomatoes, superior in taste, are allowed in the kitchen. On top of that, he’s also continuously researching his cuisine – the best biryani, after all, is found in old homes. Like Singh, he’s one of a rare breed who have dedicated their lives to consistency, perfection and something bigger than themselves.
“This is a very special cuisine. It’s unique. The recipe has been maintained from generation to generation,” said Qureshi, who hails from a lineage of royal chefs dating back to 1825. Everything from the aroma of the biryani, the saffron, to the colourful rice – “the cuisine is in my blood”.
That must have been one of the reasons dining at Dum Pukht felt like a connection to a rich and vast cultural legacy, and a chapter in the education of what makes up the kaleidoscopic behemoth that is Indian cuisine. Of course, everything I tasted on this trip would not even begin to scratch the surface of all that comes under the convenient umbrella of Indian food. But, I’d say it was a good place to start, for all the delicious learning that’s still ahead of me.
CNA Luxury was in India at the invitation of ITC Hotels.
