The ride from Yala to Sri Lanka’s hill country is a test of endurance. The flatlands of the coast give way to steep switchbacks and hairpin turns. The air grows cooler, laced with the scent of eucalyptus and wet earth. The climb is relentless but rewarding. Each pedal stroke reveals a new panorama: valleys blanketed in tea bushes, waterfalls cascading down mossy cliffs, and clouds so close they seem within reach.
At 4,000 feet above sea level, Ceylon Tea Trails offers a respite that feels like stepping into another era. The collection of colonial-era bungalows, once the homes of British tea estate managers, sits amidst manicured gardens overlooking Castlereagh Lake. My room at Norwood Bungalow, with its antique furniture and claw-foot tub, feels like a portal to the days of the Raj. Afternoons here are a leisurely affair: gin and tonics on the lawn, speed croquet matches, and endless cups of tea served with crumbly scones and clotted cream.
Exploring the tea fields on foot reveals a different side of Sri Lanka. Guided by Wasantha, a local naturalist, I learn about the flora and fauna that thrive in this high-altitude haven. Wildflowers dot the trails, their colours vibrant against the green expanse. Tea pickers move through the bushes with practised efficiency, their hands a blur as they pluck the leaves that fuel the island’s most famous export.