He expresses his gratitude to Herrera, who “hasn’t been back to the office since the fall 2018 show inside the courtyard of the Museum of Modern Art. She took a bow, we hugged, and the next day, I was creative director.”
Navigating succession is no easy task. And it’s a pertinent topic that several visionary founders, including Giorgio Armani (90), Ralph Lauren (85) and Rei Kawakubo (82), must soon address. Gordon is well aware: “The world has very few legacy houses, especially outside of Europe. We talk a lot about succession at Herrera, because it’s something that a lot of other houses struggle with.”
Get it wrong and the impact can be dire. But get it right, and the brand continues to thrive, its heritage reinterpreted and relevant again for a modern customer — as Gordon has done in his six years at Herrera, where his puff-sleeved and floral appliqué dresses reflect the founder’s spirit and flair for dressing society ladies, yet don’t feel stuffy or costume-y.
Gordon attributes the smooth transition to the year in which he and Herrera worked side-by-side. “She’s remarkably trusting,” he says. “We don’t talk about work, but we see each other a lot socially. The first time she sees a collection is when she’s sitting at the show.”
One might question whether the label’s ladies-who-lunch aesthetic is relevant in a world grappling with economic uncertainty and geopolitical conflicts. “I think the antidote to dark times is not more darkness or seriousness,” says Gordon, whose unyielding optimism is underlined with a sense of pragmatism. “These are clothes for today. A lot of the reason that I’m able to [design the way I do] is because of all those years I’ve spent with clients. I’ve spent hours in fitting rooms and understanding that line between real and fantasy.”
At Herrera, that’s giving customers a taste of glamour and elegance, which Gordon believes is synonymous with confidence and joy. “There have been four and a half decades of blood, sweat, tears, love, passion and investment put into building this company. This is a brand that has dressed heads of states and First Ladies, and has been part of the zeitgeist for almost half a century.”
With accolades like that, he muses, why hide? “We’re a brand that strives for living beautifully. There’s an energy that runs through, whether we’re making a white shirt, a ball gown or a wide-leg pant. If you’re looking for something to wear and not be noticed, we’re probably not be the brand for you. This is where you come when you want to be remembered.”
Kati Chitrakorn © 2024 The Financial Times
This article originally appeared in The Financial Times
