His former official residence in the quaint capital of Portoferraio, today a museum, is sadly in not the greatest shape, looking and feeling a bit unloved. But there was much to learn about the legendary leader, notably that he actually measured 1.7m – a very normal height for the time – and was only characterised as small in stature by the British media.
Back on board, a beguiling Mediterranean sunset gently framed Elba as we sipped champagne on the balcony of our cabin and headed towards Corsica for our final stop.
Our guide started by introducing herself – “I’m Corsican, not French” – and explaining how this true jewel of an island has only been French for two centuries. The homeland of Napoleon retains a fierce sense of independence, despite being a ‘collectivité territoriale’ of France.
It’s also an island of distinct contrasts. The fourth largest of all Mediterranean islands – and by far its most mountainous, with 117 summits towering over 6,500 feet – it is also the poorest region of France, with the lowest average salaries.
Visitors are blown away by a dazzling variety of landscapes, much of it covered in vegetation known as ‘maquis’ which is filled with wild herbs and vegetables and flowers, myrtle and thyme, saffron and rosemary, heather, briar and chestnuts.
